Snow White Dial Favre-Leuba "Sea Chief" 35mm Manual Winding Watch
1960's Favre-Leuba Sea Chief chrome plated Gentleman's Watch presented in excellent condition.
The case is chrome plated with a steel back , the dial is part restored, in excellent condition. Cal 253 17 Jewel Swiss Lever Movement signed Favre Leuba running well, and keeping time.
35mmx40mm case.
The Favre Leuba Sea Chief is a highly collectible vintage Swiss wristwatch produced primarily during the 1960s and 1970s. Manufactured by Favre Leuba, one of the world's oldest watchmaking houses (founded in 1737), it represents a golden era of mechanical engineering before the quartz crisis.
- 1737-1815 (Origins): Abraham Favre established his workshop, later forming "A. Favre & Fils" in 1792. In 1815, a partnership with Auguste Leuba led to the official Favre Leuba brand name.
- 19th Century (Expansion): The brand gained international fame, particularly in India, where it became the first Swiss watchmaker to establish a presence in 1865.
- 1960s (Golden Age): Technical innovation flourished, producing iconic, rugged timepieces like the Deep Blue (1963) and the Bivouac (1962), the first mechanical altimeter watch.
- 1970s-1980s (Quartz Crisis): The advent of cheap quartz watches hit the company hard, forcing the family to sell the brand in the 1980s.
- 2011-Present (Revival): Tata Group bought the brand in 2011. Recent releases, such as the Raider Bivouac 9000 (2017), honor its technical heritage.
The Favre-Leuba Caliber 253 is a vintage, in-house mechanical manual-wind movement (often confused with or related to various digital/jump-hour project numbers like the 1253-series). Operating at 18,000 bph with 17 jewels, it is most famous for featuring an innovative dual mainspring barrel system coupled in parallel for a flatter power curve.
Key Specifications (Caliber 253)
Type: Mechanical manual-wind
Diameter: 25.6 mm (11.5 lignes)
Height: 3.0 mm
Jewels: 17 jewels
Frequency: 18,000 vibrations per hour (vph)
Mainspring: Dual barrels coupled in parallel
Design and Performance
Twin Barrels: Uses two mainspring barrels instead of one to balance out torque drop-off and stabilize energy delivery to the escapement. [1]
No-Date Configuration: The 253 is a clean, time-only (sweep seconds) iteration of Favre-Leuba’s proprietary slim movement family (sharing architecture with the date-featuring Caliber 255/259).
Application: Frequently found powering robust mid-century dress and tool watches from the brand, such as vintage iterations of the Favre-Leuba Sea King.

